User manual Humminbird 899ci HD (English (2024)

INSTALLATION OVERVIEW

Inside the boat there is often a channel or conduit used for other wiring, and this

can be used to route cables. Be sure to route the cable as far as practical from

the antenna cable of VHF radios or tachometer cables to reduce the possibility

of interference. The transducer cable should not be cut, and care should be used

not to damage the cable insulation.

Basic installation tasks that you must perform include the following:

• Install the control head (choose gimbal or in-dash mounting, where

in-dash mounting requires a separate purchase)

• Install the transducer (choose the installation method that matches

your transducer)

• Install the optional-purchase accessories. See the guides included

with each accessory.

• Test the complete installation

NOTE: To purchase accessories or any additional equipment for your control head

configuration, go to humminbird.com or contact Humminbird® Customer Service at

1-800-633-1468.

NOTE: The following accessories are not compatible with your unit: CannonLink™,

InterLink™, Remote Sonar Link™ (RSL), SmartCast®, WeatherSense®, and XM WX

Satellite Weather®. See our Web site at humminbird.com for the latest compatibility

information.

800 SERIES™ NOTE: If you are installing the Speed Sensor accessory (optional), you

will also need to purchase the Sonar/Speed Y-Cable. Contact Humminbird Customer

Service for details at 1-800-633-1468 or visit our Web site at humminbird.com.

SUPPLIES:

In addition to the hardware supplied with your transducer, you will need a

powered hand drill and various drill bits, various hand tools, including a ruler or

straightedge, a level, a 12" plumb line (weighted string or monofilament line), marker or

pencil, safety glasses and dust mask, and marine-grade silicone sealant.

NOTE:

When drilling holes in fiberglass hulls, it is best to start with a smaller bit and use

progressively larger drill bits to reduce the chance of chipping or flaking the outer coating.

CONTROL HEAD INSTALLATION

You have two choices for mounting your control head, Gimbal mounting, where

you use a surface on the boat, such as the dash, to mount the control head so

that it can be tilted up or down, or In-dash mounting. In-dash mounting

requires a separate purchase. Contact Humminbird Customer Service for details.

Gimbal Mounting the Control Head

If you are gimbal mounting the control head, you can pre-assemble the unit in

order to plan the best mounting location.

Supplies: In addition to the hardware supplied with your control head, you will

need a powered hand drill and various drill bits, various hand tools, including a

Phillips head screwdriver, a socket wrench and a flat head screwdriver, a marker

or pencil, safety glasses and dust mask, and marine-grade silicone sealant.

1. Place the control head into the gimbal bracket. Make sure that the straight

side of the gimbal arm is against the back side of the control head.

2. Place a 1" (25 mm) diameter black washer on the gimbal knob and then

thread the knob and washer into the housing. Tighten the gimbal knob to

secure the control head to the mount. Repeat step 2 for the other side.

You can now place the control head in various locations to decide which is best

for mounting. Rotating the mounting bracket to the top of the control head will

allow for overhead mounting. The chosen mounting area should allow for

sufficient room so the control head can pivot through the full tilt range and allow

for easy removal and installation.

NOTE: You can drill the cable pass hole underneath the gimbal bracket, allowing you

to thread the cables through the knock-out holes in the mount; however, if you cannot

drill the hole directly under the mounting bracket, then you will need to drill the cable

pass hole behind the bracket and mount the hole cover there instead.

NOTE: When drilling holes in fiberglass hulls, it is best to start with a smaller bit and

use progressively larger drill bits to reduce the chance of chipping or flaking the outer

coating. Fill all holes with marine grade silicone sealant.

NOTE: You must have underside access to the mounting location to pass the cables

through to the surface. Also, make sure that the mounting surface is adequately

supported to protect the control head from excessive wave shock and vibration and

provide visibility while in operation.

3. Go to the installation instructions applicable to your transducer and

accessories. Make the required installations and then run the cables to your

control head mounting location. Do not cut any cabling (except the power

cable). If your cables are too short, extensions are available from your local

dealer or online from humminbird.com.

4. After the mounting location has been determined, loosen the gimbal knobs

and remove the control head from the gimbal bracket.

NOTE: Alternate hole patterns are available on the gimbal mounting bracket, and

may match existing holes on the boat. You may choose to use one of these alternate

hole patterns.

5. Place the gimbal bracket in the chosen position on the mounting surface and

mark the four mounting screw locations using a pencil or center punch.

Washer

1

Gimbal Knob

2

Gimbal Bracket

3

1

2

3

not available

1

not available

2

Power

3

32 4

Ethernet

COM (communications)

Transducer

4

5

6

1 5 6

NOTE:

Your transducer might not look exactly like the illustrations in this guide, but it

will mount in the same way. We encourage you to read this guide completely so that

you may understand the installation requirements.

NOTE:

Due to the wide variety of hulls, only general instructions are presented in this

installation guide. Each boat hull represents a unique set of requirements that should be

evaluated prior to installation. It is important to read the instructions completely and

understand the mounting guidelines before beginning installation.

6. Set the gimbal bracket aside and drill the four mounting screw holes using a

5/32" (4.0 mm) drill bit.

7a. If the cables must pass through a hole directly beneath the mounting

bracket, mark and drill an additional 1" (25 mm) hole centered between the

four mounting holes. Route the cables through the 1" hole. Place the hole

cover over the mounting surface hole, then use it to mark the position of the

two mounting screws. Remove the hole cover, drill the two mounting holes

using a 9/64" bit. Do not install the hole cover at this time.

or...

7b. If the cables cannot be routed directly beneath the mounting bracket,

mark and drill a 1" (25 mm) hole that will allow you to run the cables close to

the bracket. Pass the cables through the 1" (25 mm) hole, routing the cables

through the grommet and pressing the grommet into place. Place the hole

cover over the mounting surface hole, then use it to mark the position of the

two mounting screws. Remove the hole cover, drill the two mounting holes

using a 9/64" (3.5 mm) bit, fill them with marine-grade silicone, then replace

the hole cover and insert the #8 Phillips countersink wood screws.

Hand-tighten only.

8. Place the mounting bracket on the mounting surface aligned with the drilled

holes and fill the mounting holes with marine grade silicone sealant. Insert

the four #10 Slotted-Hex wood screws into the mounting holes.

Hand-tighten only.

9. If the cable pass through hole is beneath the mounting bracket, you will need

to install the hole cover after you have routed all cables. Place the hole cover

over the mounting bracket cable pass through hole and align with holes

drilled in step 7a. Insert the #8 Phillips countersink wood screws.

Hand-tighten only.

NOTE: Be sure that the cables pass through the slots on the hole cover and that there

is enough cable slack to allow for the control head to pivot through its full tilt range.

Extra cable slack will also help when connecting or disconnecting the cables.

10. Proceed to Installing the Cable Connector Insert.

Installing the Cable Connector Insert

1. Insert cable connectors into the proper recesses on the cable collector insert.

The cable connectors are keyed to prevent reverse installation, so be careful

not to force the connectors into the wrong slots. If you don’t have a cable for

every hole in the insert, install the blank plugs to protect the control head

from the weather.

800 SERIES NOTE: If you are installing the Speed Sensor accessory, insert the

Sonar/Speed Y-Cable connector into the Transducer slot on the cable connector

insert. Then, connect the transducer connector and speed sensor connector to the

corresponding connectors on the Y-Cable. The Y-Cable requires a separate purchase.

2. While holding cables in place in the

cable collector insert, thread the

cables through the slot in the

bottom of the cable collector cover.

Line up the cable collector insert

and cover, then slide the cover into

place on the insert.

NOTE: The tab on the Cable Collector

insert goes into the slot on the cover.

3. Attach the cable collector insert to

the cable collector cover using the 2

Phillips screws provided.

Plug Cable Connector Assembly

to Back of Control Head

Power

1

Ethernet

2

COM (communications)

3

Transducer

4

Cable Collector Insert

5

1 2

3 4

5

Cable Collector Insert

1

Screws

2

Cable Collector Cover

3

Tab on Insert

4

Slot on Cover

5

1

2

3

4

5

Inserting the Cables into the Cable Connector Insert

Assembling the Cable Collector

1

Cables Routed Directly Beneath Mounting Bracket

Gimbal Bracket

1

Hole Cover

2

2

1

Cables Routed Behind Mounting Bracket

3

Gimbal Bracket

1

Grommet

2

Hole Cover

3

2

1

3

2

Mounting Screws

1

Washer

2

Gimbal Mounting Bracket

3

4. Place the control head back onto the mounting bracket. Plug in the cable

collector assembly to the back of the control head. The cable connectors are

keyed to prevent reverse installation, so be careful not to force the connectors

into the wrong slots.

Once the cable collector and all cables are plugged into the back of the

control head, lock the assembly into place by threading the knurled screw

into the threaded insert on the back of the housing. Adjust the control head

to the desired viewing angle and secure by tightening the gimbal knobs.

NOTE: You may wish to dress the cabling with nylon wire ties in order to hold the

cables together and create a cleaner assembly.

Connecting the Control Head Power Cable to the Boat

A 6' (2 m) long power cable is included to supply power to the control head. You

may shorten or lengthen the cable using 18 gauge multi-stranded copper wire.

CAUTION! Some boats have 24 or 36 Volt electric systems, but the control head

MUST be connected to a 12 VDC power supply.

The control head power cable can be connected to the electrical system of the

boat at one of two places: a fuse panel usually located near the console, or

directly to the battery.

CAUTION! Make sure that the power cable is disconnected from the control head at

the beginning of this procedure.

NOTE: Humminbird is not responsible for over-voltage or over-current failures. The

control head must have adequate protection through the proper selection and

installation of a 3 Amp fuse.

NOTE: In order to minimize the potential for interference with other marine

electronics, a separate power source (such as a second battery) may be necessary.

TRANSOM TRANSDUCER

INSTALLATION

1.

Locating the Transducer Mounting Position

Turbulence: You must first determine the best

location on the transom to install the transducer. It is

very important to locate the transducer in an area

that is relatively free of turbulent water. Consider the

following to find the best location with the least

amount of turbulence:

• As the boat moves through the water,

turbulence is generated by the weight of the

boat and the thrust of the propeller(s) - either

clockwise or counter-clockwise. This turbulent

water is normally confined to areas immediately

aft of ribs, strakes or rows of rivets on the

bottom of the boat, and in the immediate area of

the propeller(s). Clockwise propellers create

more turbulence on the port side. On outboard

or inboard/outboard boats, it is best to locate

the transducer at least 15" to the side of the

propeller(s) (Figure 3).

• The best way to locate turbulence-free water is to view the transom

while the boat is moving. This method is recommended if maximum high-

speed operation (up to 65 mph) is a high priority. If this is not possible,

select a location on the transom where the hull forward of this location

is smooth, flat, and free of protrusions or ribs (Figure 1).

• On boats with stepped hulls, it may be possible to mount the transducer

on the step. Do not mount the transducer on the transom behind a step

to avoid popping the transducer out of the water at higher speeds. The

transducer must remain in the water for the control head to maintain the

sonar signal (Figure 2).

• If the transom is behind the propeller(s), it may be impossible to find an

area clear from turbulence, and a different mounting technique or

transducer type should be considered.

• If you plan to trailer your boat, do not mount the transducer too close to

trailer bunks or rollers to avoid moving or damaging the transducer

during loading and unloading of the boat.

NOTE: If you require a high-speed application (above 65 mph) and cannot find a

transom mount location that will work for your boat hull, a different mounting

technique or transducer type should be considered. See the FAQ (Frequently Asked

Questions) section of our Web site at humminbird.com or call Humminbird Customer

Service at 1-800-633-1468.

Side Imaging: The Side Imaging transducer has some special

requirements because of its side viewing capabilities:

• The Side Imaging transducer must NOT have anything

obstructing the ‘view’ of the side looking beams. Nothing can

be in the line of sight of these beams (not a hull, motor, or other

transducer, etc [Figure 4]).

NOTE: You may need to tilt the motor up and out of the way when using

the side looking beams.

• In order for the side beams to be displayed accurately, the

transducer must be mounted so that it is looking straight down

in the water when the boat is in the water.

Find a turbulence-free location at least 15" from the propeller(s) and

not in line with trailer bunks or rollers (Figure 3).

Level

NOTE: Traveling over 65 mph with the transducer in

the water is not recommended with the Side

Imaging® Transom Mount Transducer, as damage

might occur. If speed above 65 mph is critical,

contact Humminbird Customer Service for a different

mounting technique or transducer type at

1-800-633-1468 or humminbird.com.

Areas of Possible Turbulence

Rivets

Transom

Stepped Hull

Rib

Step

Figure 1

Figure 2

Strakes

Hull

1a. If a fuse terminal is available, use crimp-on type electrical connectors

(not included) that match the terminal on the fuse panel. Attach the

black wire to ground (-), and the red wire to positive (+) 12 VDC

power. Install a 3 Amp fuse (not included) for protection of the unit.

Humminbird is not responsible for over-voltage or over-current

failures.

or...

1b. If you need to wire the control head directly to a battery, obtain and

install an inline fuse holder and a 3 Amp fuse (not included) for the

protection of the unit. Humminbird is not responsible for over-voltage

or over-current failures.

NOTE: The hydrodynamic shape of your transducer allows

it to point straight down without deadrise adjustment

(Figure 5).

2.

Preparing the Mounting Location

In this procedure, you will determine the mounting

location and drill two mounting holes, using the

transducer mounting bracket as a guide.

1. Make sure that the boat is level on the trailer,

both from port to starboard and from bow to

stern, by placing your level on the deck of the

boat, first in one direction, then in the other.

2. Hold the mounting bracket against the transom

of the boat in the location you have selected

(Figure 6). Align the bracket horizontally, using

the level. Make sure that the lower corner of the

bracket does not protrude past the bottom of the

hull, and there is at least 1/4" clearance between

the bottom of the bracket and the bottom of the

transom for fiberglass boats, and 1/8" clearance

for aluminum boats (Figure 7).

NOTE: If you have a flat-bottomed aluminum boat, some

additional adjustment may be needed to accommodate

the rivets on the bottom of the boat (i.e. the gap may

need to be a little smaller than 1/8"). This will help you to

avoid excessive turbulence at high speeds.

NOTE: If your propeller moves clockwise (in forward, as

you're facing the stern of the boat from behind), mount

the transducer on the starboard side, and align the

bottom right corner of the mounting bracket with the

bottom of the boat. If your propeller moves counter-

clockwise (in forward, as you're facing the stern of the

boat from behind), mount the transducer on the port side,

and align the bottom left corner of the mounting bracket

with the bottom of the boat.

3. Continue to hold the bracket on the transom of

the boat, and use a pencil or marker to mark

where to drill the two mounting holes. Mark the

drill holes near the top of each slot, making sure

that your mark is centered in the slot (Figure 8).

4. Make sure that the drill bit is perpendicular to the

actual surface of the transom, NOT parallel to the

ground, before you drill. Using a5/32" bit, drill the

two holes only to a depth of approximately 1".

NOTE: On fiberglass hulls, it is best to use progressively

larger drill bits to reduce the chance of chipping or flaking

the outer coating.

3.

Assembling the Transducer and Initial Mounting

In this procedure, you will assemble the transducer using the hardware

provided, then mount it and make adjustments to its position without locking it

in place.

NOTE: You will initially assemble the transducer and the pivot arm by matching the

two ratchets to a numbered position on the transducer knuckle. Further adjustments

may be necessary.

1a. If you already know your transom angle, refer to the chart below for the

initial position to use to set the ratchets (Figure 9). If your transom is angled

at 14 degrees (a common transom angle for many boats) use position 1 for

the ratchets. In either case, go to step 2.

or...

1b. If you do not know your transom angle,

measure it using a plumb line (weighted nylon

string or monofilament line) exactly 12 inches

long. Hold the top of the plumb line against the

top of the transom with your finger, and wait

until the line hangs straight down (Figure 10).

Using a ruler, measure the distance from the

bottom of the plumb line to the back of the

transom, then use the chart (Figure 9).

NOTE: It is important to take your measurement in the

location shown in Figure 10, from exactly 12 inches down

from the top of the transom.

2. Place the two ratchets, one on either side of the

transducer knuckle, so that the beads on each

ratchet line up with the desired position number

on the knuckle (Figure 11a). If you are setting the

ratchets at position 1, the beads on each ratchet

will line up with the rib on the transducer knuckle

to form one continuous line on the assembly

(Figure 11b).

Transducer Knuckle Positions

Knuckle

Figure 11a

Figure 11d

Fitting the Pivot Arm Over the Ratchet

Beads

Ratchet

Rib at

position 1

Figure 11b

Ratchets Placed in Position 1

Rib

Ratchet

Bead

Figure 11c

Ratchets Placed in Position 2

Figure 4

Transducer Mount Position

Unobstructed View: The jack plate gives the transducer

safe distance from the motor and turbulence. The Side

Imaging has a clear view side-to-side.

Obstructed View: The transducer is too close to motor

turbulence, and the Side Imaging view is blocked by the

motor. The view cannot extend from side-to-side.

Figure 5

Deadrise Angle

Transom

Angle in

degrees

(°)

Measured

Distance (X)

Measuring the

Transom Angle

Plumb

line

Weight

Figure 10

Figure 9

Using the Mounting Bracket to

Mark the Initial Drill Holes

Mark Initial

Drill Holes

Figure 8

4th hole

3rd hole

Boat Hull Types Require

Different Mounting Positions

1/4" for fiberglass

1/8" for aluminum

Figure 7

Positioning the

Mounting Bracket

Level

Level

Figure 6

NOTE:

The third hole should not be drilled until the

angle and height of the transducer is finalized,

which you will not do until a later procedure.

NOTE: The ratchets are keyed. Make sure that the square teeth on each ratchet face

the square teeth on the transducer knuckle, and the triangular teeth face outward.

Hold the ratchets on the transducer knuckle with one hand and fit the pivot

arm over them until it snaps into place with the other hand. Refer to the

illustration (Figure 11d).

3. Put the pivot bolt through the assembly to hold it

in position and loosely install the nut, but do NOT

tighten the nut at this time (Figure 12).

CAUTION! Do not use a high speed driver on this

combination of fasteners. Hand tighten only.

4. Insert the pivot arm assembly into the mounting

bracket (Figure 13). Do NOT snap the assembly

closed, as you will need to access the mounting

bracket in the next step.

NOTE: If the pivot assembly is snapped closed over the

mounting bracket, use a flat head screwdriver or similar

tool to gently pry the assembly away from the mounting

bracket (Figure 14).

5. Align the mounting bracket transducer assembly

with the drilled holes in thetransom. With a 5/16"

socket driver, mount the assembly to the transom

using the two #10 - 1" long screws provided

(Figure 15). Hand-tighten only!

NOTE: Make sure that the mounting screws are snug, but

do not fully tighten the mounting screws at this time to

allow the transducer assembly to slide for adjustment

purposes.

6. Snap the pivot arm down into place.

7. Adjust the initial angle of the transducer from back to front by rotating the

transducer until the side seam on the transducer is almost parallel with the

bottom of the boat, one click at a time in either direction (Figure 16).

8. Adjust the transducer assembly vertically, until

the seam on the leading edge of the transducer

(the edge closest to the transom of the boat) is

level and just slightly below the hull (Figure 17).

NOTE: The transducer has a natural downward slant of 4

to 5 degrees from leading edge (closest to the boat

transom) to trailing edge (farthest away from the boat).

Looking at the back of the transducer, the seam should be

slightly below the bottom of the hull.

9. Continue to adjust the transducer assembly until

the bracket is also level from port to starboard

(horizontally level as you look at the transducer

from behind the boat). (Figure 18)

10. Mark the correct position on the transom by

tracing the silhouette of the transducer mounting

bracket with a pencil or marker.

11. Tighten the pivot bolt, using the pivot screw and

nut to lock the assembly. Hand tighten only!

CAUTION! Do not use a high speed driver on this

combination of fasteners. Hand tighten only.

12. Snap open the assembly and hand-tighten the

two mounting screws, then snap the assembly

closed.

4.

Routing the Cable

The transducer cable has a low profile connector, which must be routed to the

point where the control head is mounted. There are several ways to route the

transducer cable to the area where the control head is installed. The most

common procedure routes the cable through the transom into the boat.

NOTE: Your boat may have a pre-existing wiring channel or conduit that you can use

for the transducer cable.

1. Unplug the other end of the transducer cable from the control head. Make

sure that the cable is long enough to accommodate the planned route by

running the cable over the transom.

CAUTION! Do not cut or shorten the transducer cable, and try not to damage the

cable insulation. Route the cable as far as possible from any VHF radio antenna

cables or tachometer cables to reduce the possibility of interference. If the cable is

too short, extension cables are available to extend the transducer cable up to a total

of 50'. For assistance, contact Humminbird Customer Service.

CAUTION! Do NOT mount the cables where the connectors could be submerged in

water or flooded. If cables are installed in a splash-prone area, it may be helpful to

apply dielectric grease to the inside of the connectors to prevent corrosion. Dielectric

grease can be purchased separately from a general hardware or automotive store.

NOTE: The transducer can pivot up to 90 degrees in the bracket. Allow enough slack

in the cable for this movement. It is best to route the cable to the side of the

transducer so the transducer will not damage the cable during movement.

2a. If you are routing the cable over the transom of the boat, secure the

cable by attaching the cable clamp to the transom, drilling 9/64" diameter

holes for #8 x 5/8" wood screws, then skip directly to procedure 5,

Connecting the Cable. Hand-tighten only!

or...

2b. If you will be routing the cable through a hole

in the transom, drill a 5/8" diameter hole above

the waterline. Route the cable through this hole,

then fill the hole with marine-grade silicone

sealant and proceed to the next step immediately

(Figure 19).

3. Place the escutcheon plate over the cable hole

and use it as a guide to mark the two escutcheon

plate mounting holes. Remove the plate, drill two

9/64" diameter x 5/8" deep holes, and then fill

both holes with marine-grade silicone sealant.

Place the escutcheon plate over the cable hole

and attach with two #8 x 5/8" wood screws.

Hand-tighten only!

4. Route and secure the cable by attaching the

cable clamp to the transom. Drill one 9/64"

diameter x 5/8" deep hole, then fill hole with

marine-grade silicone sealant, then attach the

cable clamp using a #8 x 5/8" screw.

Hand-tighten only!

Routing the Cable

Figure 19

Leveling the Mounting

Assembly Horizontally

Level

Level

Figure 18

Adjusting the Transducer

Mounting Position

Seam aligned

with boat hull

Figure 17

Adjusting the Initial Transducer Angle

One click too low

Trailing edge

Correctly aligned

(transducer side seam

aligned with boat bottom)

One click too high

Figure 16

Leading edge

NOTE:

You will drill the third mounting hole and finalize the installation after

you route the cable and test and finish the installation in the following

procedures.

Mounting the Assembly to

the Transom

Figure 15

Inserting the Pivot Arm

Assembly Into the

Mounting Bracket

Figure 13

Figure 14

Inserting the Pivot Bolt

Figure 12

NOTE: If there is excess cable that needs to be gathered

at one location (as shown in the illustration), dress the

cable routed from both directions so that a single loop is

left extending from the storage location. Doubling the

cable up from this point, form the cable into a coil.

Storing excess cable using this method can reduce

electronic interference (Figure 20).

5.

Connecting the Cable

1. Insert the transducer cable into the appropriate slot on the cable connector

holder. See Installing the Cable Connector Insert for details.

NOTE: The cable connectors are labeled, and there are corresponding labels on the

connector holder on the rear of the control head. The slots are keyed to prevent

reversed installation, so be careful not to force the connector into the holder.

NOTE: If you are installing the Speed Sensor accessory (optional), you might also

need to purchase the Sonar/Speed Y-Cable. See Installing the Cable Connector

Insert for details.

6.

Test and Finish the Installation

Once you have installed both the control head and the transom transducer, and

have routed all the cables, you must perform a final test before locking the

transducer in place. Testing should be performed with the boat in the water.

1. Press POWER once to turn on the control head. If the unit does not power up,

make sure that the connector holder is fully seated in the receptacle and that

power is available.

2. If all connections are correct and power is available, the Humminbird control

head will enter Normal operation.

3. If the bottom is visible on-screen with a digital depth readout, the unit is

working properly. Make sure that the boat is in water greater than 2' but less

than the depth capability of the unit, and that the transducer is fully

submerged, since the sonar signal cannot pass through air.

NOTE: The transducer must be submerged in water for reliable transducer detection.

4. If the unit is working properly, gradually increase the boat speed to test high-

speed performance. If the unit functions well at low speeds, but begins to

skip or miss the bottom at higher speeds, the transducer requires adjustment.

5. If you have the correct angle set on the transducer, yet lose a bottom reading

at high speed, adjust the height and the running angle in small increments

to give you the ideal transducer position for your boat. First, adjust the height

in small increments (Figure 17).

NOTE: The deeper the transducer is in the water, the more likely that a rooster tail of

spray will be generated at high speeds, so make sure that the transducer is as high

as it can be and still be submerged in the water.

If you are still not getting good high speed readings, you may need to

disassemble the transducer mounting assembly and re-position the ratchets

(Figures 11a - 11d).

If you do change the transducer position, re-trace the position of the

mounting bracket before proceeding.

NOTE: It is often necessary to make several incremental transducer adjustments

before optimum high speed (up to 65 mph) performance is achieved. Due to the wide

variety of boat hulls, however, it is not always possible to obtain high speed depth

readings.

6. Once you have reached a consistently good sonar signal at the desired

speeds, you are ready to lock down the transducer settings. Force the pivot

to the Up position to gain access to the mounting screws, then re-align the

mounting bracket against the transom of the boat to match the traced

silhouette. Check the bracket position with the level again to make sure it is

still level, then mark the third mounting hole using a pencil or marker.

Unscrew and remove the mounting screws and the transducer assembly and

set aside.

7. Drill the third mounting hole, using a 5/32" drill bit. Use a marine-grade

silicone sealant to fill all three drilled mounting holes, especially if the holes

penetrated the transom wall.

NOTE: On fiberglass hulls, it is best to use progressively larger drill bits to reduce the

chance of chipping or flaking the outer coating.

8. Re-position the transducer assembly against the transom of the boat, then

hand-install all three screws. Make sure that the transducer location and the

pivot angle have not changed, then fully tighten all three mounting screws

(Figure 21). Hand-tighten only! Snap the pivot back down. If you have

performed the preceding procedures correctly, the transducer should be level

and at the right height for optimal operation.

7.

Locking Down the Transducer (Optional)

NOTE: You have the option to lock down the Two Piece Kick Up bracket if you do not

want the transducer to kick up. Please be aware, however, that the transducer can

be damaged if it is locked down and it strikes debris in the water.

1. To lock down the transducer, trace the position of

the mounting bracket. Force the pivot to the Up

position to gain access to the mounting screws,

then re-align the mounting bracket against the

transom of the boat to match the traced

silhouette. Check the bracket position with the

level again to make sure it is still level, then mark

the fourth mounting hole using a pencil or

marker (Figure 8). Unscrew and remove the

mounting screws and the transducer assembly

and set aside.

2. Drill the fourth mounting hole, using a 9/64" drill

bit. Use a marine-grade silicone sealant to fill all

four drilled mounting holes, especially if the

holes penetrate the transom wall.

3. Re-position the transducer assembly against the

transom of the boat, then hand install the first

three screws (two on the outside edges and one

in the 3rd mounting hole). Make sure that the